To calculate how much pond liner you need, start with the length and width of your pond, then add in the depth of the pond twice. (You are going down into the pond and back up the other side). 

For example: a 3.3m x 4.88m x .6m deep pond will require a 4.6m x 6.1m liner.

Yes, it is highly recommended that you run your new pond pump 24 hours each day. This optimises the health of your new pond ecosystem. Keeping your pump running constantly maximises oxygen levels, maintains proper filtration and supports aerobic bacteria. Each of these factors is crucial to the health of your ecosystem. Oxygen levels vary throughout the day and night. Oxygen levels are at their lowest during the night time when plants start consuming oxygen. One of the reasons new pond owners are hesitant to run their pumps 24/7 is because they are concerned about the costs associated with continually running a pond pump. Fortunately, Aquascape pond pumps are energy efficient, allowing you to run your pumps constantly. So please do yourself and your pond a favour by running your pond pump constantly, resulting in optimal fish health and ideal water conditions throughout the year. 

In order to work out how much rock you need, perform the following calculation:

(L in meters x W in meters)/4.1 = metric tonnes of Rock & Boulder.

It's best to use a 1:2:1 Ratio - as an example, for every 1 tonne of 15-30 cm rock, use 2 tonne of 30-45 cm rock and 1 tonne of 45-60 cm boulder. Using a variety of sizes makes the pond look more natural.

Rock Calculation Example:

A 5m x 5m pond needs

(5x5)/4.1 = 6.1 tonnes of Rock & Boulder

6.1/4 = 1.53

Therefore use 1.53 tonne of 15-30cm rock, 3.06 tonne of 30-45cm rock and 1.53 tonne of 45-60 cm boulders.

In order to work out the amount of pebbles you need for your pond, you should calculate 30% of the rocks and boulders you are using.

For example: If you require 6.1 tonnes of Rock & Boulder, multiply 6.1 x 0.3 = 1830 Kg or 1.83 tonne of pebbles 1-4cm size.

To determine the amount of rock you need for your stream, you need to calculate 1.4 metric tonnes of rock per 3m of stream.

For every 3m of Stream use 1.4 metric tonnes of rock using 1:2:1 ratio (see rock calculation above).  

For example, to have a 6m stream into the pond, use 2.8 metric tonnes of rock. You will need .7 tonne of 15-30cm rock, 1.4 tonne of 30-45cm rock and .7 tonne of 45-60cm boulders. 

In order to work out the amount of pebbles you need for your stream, you should calculate 30% of the stream rocks and boulders you are using.

For example: 2.8 tonnes of stream rocks & boulders required (see stream rock calculation above) x 0.3 = .84 tonne of pebbles 20-50mm in size.

Constructed wetlands have grown in popularity over the last couple of years mainly because of their natural look and aesthetic appeal. But what exactly is a wetland and just how does it function?

A wetland works just like a biological filter, but instead of creating a waterfall; it creates an area in your pond thick with naturally-filtering plants, as well as rocks and gravel, which provide a surface for bacterial colonisation … nature’s perfect filters. So a wetland, while naturally beautiful and pleasing to the eye, is a great filtration method, and will help keep your water looking crystal clear. One of the greatest things about wetland filtration is that it can be used with almost any system. But will it fit in with your pond? Do you have to have a lot of space to construct a wetland? There are no size limitations because it acts as your biological filtration. The plants, rocks, and gravel act as the filtration media, similar to what you see in nature.

The Benefits

Sure it might look pretty, and it might be designed like a wetland straight out of the marshlands, but how clean does it keep the water? Some say it’s even better than a biological filter, but in actuality, the benefits are very similar. Wetland filtration balances out your water very well, sometimes better than the biological filter, and once it is balanced, your pond will require less water treatment application. If you install a larger pond with more than one biological filter, the financial benefits of the constructed wetland system will make your customer’s pocketbook pretty happy. If you only have one waterfall, the energy consumption is about the same, but if you have multiple waterfalls, powered by multiple pumps, you can save money by using the wetland system instead.

Learning the Secret

The key to a wetland filtration system lies with the plants. Plants are an integral part of a balanced pond ecosystem and help create a natural looking environment, which is becoming more important to today’s consumer. Plants help purify the water by reducing nutrients, filtering out sediments and absorbing toxic compounds through the process of phytoremediation, they’re also the basis of a food web in which pathogens are consumed by microorganisms associated with the aquatic plants.

Another key to the filtration lies in the sediment chamber created by the AquaBlox® on the bottom of the wetland. This sediment chamber reduces the velocity of the incoming water below 2 feet/second, allowing the sedimentation process to occur while dispersing the water evenly along the bottom of the wetland. The slow, even flow of water is necessary for optimal contact time between the water and gravel bringing nutrients and oxygen to the bacterial colonies. Beneficial bacteria are housed in this gravel, providing your first layer of filtration before the water even hits the plant roots.

The important thing to remember when considering a constructed wetland filter is that, similar to your biological filter’s placement, the wetland filter should be flowing down to your pond for optimal efficiency. The wetland must sit a little higher than the pond because you need the water to flow back into the pond, because the bacteria housed in the wetland will consume dissolved oxygen as they utilize nutrients. This flow of water in the form of a waterfall or swift-moving stream back into the pond is a natural way to re-oxygenate the water.

The Snorkel® and Centipede®

Aquascape’s Snorkel® Vault and Centipede® Module, along with a layer of small AquaBlox® strategically positioned along the bottom of the filter makes building a wetland simple. All you need to use in conjunction with these two components is a pump appropriate to the amount of water flow, rock and gravel, wetland plants, piping that is appropriate for the size of your pump, a skimmer or wet well, and, of course, water. The water flows through the plumbing from the wet well or skimmer, into the Centipede® Module, which pushes the water into the AquaBlox® sediment chamber up through the layers of gravel where it comes into contact with beneficial bacteria and then the plant roots for final filtration. The Snorkel® Vault is convenient for cleaning any sludge that may accumulate on the bottom through usage. Simply pop off the cap and you have complete access for easy cleaning.

What about the Waterfall?

Maybe your customer wants a wetland but doesn’t want to lose the beauty and sound of a waterfall. No problem! Your customer can have both! You can’t over-filter a pond. It’s virtually impossible. And remember, for large ponds, incorporating both a constructed wetland and waterfall will cost less in operational costs than two waterfalls.

What some installers don’t realise is that your biological filtration actually acts as a wetland filtration system of sorts when you place certain plants in the top of it. Water lettuce are always a fan favourite for southern states, but certain marginals like iris, dwarf bulrush, pickerel rush, and any tropicals also work. The important thing to remember is that all of these plants will have die off when the cold temperatures hit. This may inhibit their filtration a bit, but something’s always better than nothing when it comes to filtration. So even without a full-fledged constructed wetland system, you can feel comfortable that a wetland of sorts is working in your pond by adding aquatic plants inside the top of the biological filter. After all, the same process is in effect, with water pushing up and through the filter media, and then up through your plant roots.

Wetlands Work

The bottom line is that constructed wetlands work, and they make any pond look natural and gorgeous. What’s more, natural wetlands and the associated riparian habitats are the most biologically diverse habitats on earth, more species of plants and animals are associated with them than any other type of ecosystem.

But because of our construction practices and changes to natural hydrology, these systems are under great stress. By adding a small wetland in your customer’s backyard, you’ll be helping to preserve the natural biodiversity of your community. With today’s growing tendency toward creating sustainable landscape solutions, you can see why wetland filtration is an obvious choice for today’s environmentally-conscious consumer. For more information on wetland filtration, watch our short video: https://youtu.be/KS8rhtIlGbs

A properly designed pond will not attract mosquitoes, as mosquitoes prefer stagnant water to produce their offspring. Most backyard ponds have constantly moving water, between the skimmer and the waterfalls/streams. Additionally, any mosquito larvae that manage to hatch will either be sucked into the skimmer or eaten by the fish. If your pond does not have a skimmer and/or fish, consider getting a pump and fountain combination. This should create enough water movement to discourage mosquitoes from visiting your pond.

We proudly introduce our "How to Build a Pond" video. Aquascape expert, Ed Beaulieu, walks you through the 20 steps of building an Aquascape Ecosystem Pond and gives you great insights into the techniques needed to make your project a truly spectacular water garden. For more information, visit www.aquascapesupplies.com.au

https://youtu.be/GSWOh-EkxS0

A pond works best with a balanced 5-part ecosystem. Biological filtration, mechanical filtration, Rock/Gravel, fish, and plants make up this recipe. Beneficial Bacteria used regularly with a proper filtration system should keep your pond clean. Beneficial Bacteria colonises on the rocks and gravel in the pond. This Beneficial Bacteria breaks down complex organic compounds that sink to the bottom of the pond. Without the rocks and gravel on the bottom of the pond, you would not have the large quantity of bacteria in this location to help breakdown and digest the organic material. Over the same time period, ponds with the balanced 5-part ecosystem will have less organic material at the bottom of the pond than a bare-bottomed liner pond.

It is time to replace the filter pads when they begin to fall apart when handling them. Ideally, the skimmer filter pads and the Biofalls filter pads ideally will last two-to-three years before having to replace them.

You should have a pump with a capacity to turn the water over in your pond at least once an hour.

You can expect 1/2% - 1% of the total litres per hour, per day to be lost to evaporation

For example: 12,000 LPH pump
1/2% = 60 litres/day
1% = 120 litres/day
Make sure to estimate the flow rate after head pressure loss, 12,000 LPH pump may only supply 9,500 LPH or less, this will make a difference. The variations are used according to the site conditions, full sun and full wind will be 1% a sheltered pond will be 1/2%. These numbers are an average; it will fluctuate throughout the season.
Evaporation continues to increase as the amount of water flowing through the atmosphere increases along with the increased splashing and vaporisation of water as it crashes over boulders.
The next question or answer you need is how much water is 1" of water loss in a given pond. 3.35m x 4.88m pond = 16.35m2, If it was a rectangle or x .85 for irregular shape = 14m2 14 x 25.38 litres/m2 X 1" deep = 355 litres 12,000 LPH pump x 1/2% = 60 litres x 7 days = 420 litres/week or 1" of water loss/week. Try it on your personal pond or other pond your familiar with to double check the calculations and adjust as necessary.

In order to work out how much rock you need, perform the following calculation:

(L in meters x W in meters)/4.1 = metric tonnes of Rock & Boulder.

It's best to use a 1:2:1 Ratio - as an example, for every 1 tonne of 15-30 cm rock, use 2 tonne of 30-45 cm rock and 1 tonne of 45-60 cm boulder. Using a variety of sizes makes the pond look more natural.

Rock Calculation Example:

A 5m x 5m pond needs

(5x5)/4.1 = 6.1 tonnes of Rock & Boulder

6.1/4 = 1.53

Therefore use 1.53 tonne of 15-30cm rock, 3.06 tonne of 30-45cm rock and 1.53 tonne of 45-60 cm boulders.

In order to work out the amount of pebbles you need for your pond, you should calculate 30% of the rocks and boulders you are using.

For example: If you require 6.1 tonnes of Rock & Boulder, multiply 6.1 x 0.3 = 1.83 tonne of pebbles 20-50mm in size.

Approximate Litres of Water in a POND
Length x Width x Average Depth x 1000 = total litres

Approximate Litres of Water in a STREAM
(Length x Width x 77) = Litres in the stream.
*You need 2x the amount of water in your basin

Learn from Aquascape experts, Ed Beaulieu and Brian Helfrich, the newest techniques of building the perfect Pondless® Waterfall using one of Aquascape's kits. These kits include all you need to install your project with ease including our new Waterfall Spillway and new and improved Pondless® Waterfall Vault. For more information, visit our website at www.aquascapesupplies.com.au https://youtu.be/Ty0acUVBzYE

Because of the Waterfall Spillway's structural strength, you are able to set boulders, logs, gravel, soil or other creative landscape material directly on top of the unit, helping to disguise it into the surrounding landscape.

Pondless® Waterfalls are simply a re-circulating waterfall and/or stream without the presence of a pond. You can enjoy the sight and sound of running water without the maintenance of a pond.

The waterfall is undoubtedly the most beautiful and favoured feature in a water garden. If space is lacking in your yard or you have safety concerns with a pond, go Pondless®! The name basically explains it all. It’s a waterfall and stream, without the pond. So why would you want a waterfall without a pond? The truth is that a Pondless® Waterfall isn’t for everyone, but it can be a great alternative for someone who isn’t quite sure if a pond is right for their family.

Safety
Because there is no pool of water, a Pondless® Waterfall is a great option if you are concerned about safety issues associated with a traditional pond.

Cost
Cost can be a big factor when considering the type of pond you want to build. In most cases, the price of a Pondless® waterfall will be less than a pond, because there is less labour involved, as well as less rock and materials. Operating costs are also less. Because you’re not dealing with an established ecosystem, it’s not necessary to run the pump 24/7.

Space
The small size of the Pondless® Waterfall means you can build and enjoy a beautiful waterfall anywhere in your yard. Maintenance - Taking care of your Pondless® Waterfall is easy. Filling the reservoir every few weeks to compensate for water loss because of evaporation is all that’s required.

Flexibility
Perhaps the best part of the Pondless® Waterfall is the possibility for the future. If you change your mind later, wishing you’d build a pond, that’s ok! If you leave enough room around the base of the waterfall, it’s easy to add a pond onto a Pondless® Waterfall.

Complete System
It might be difficult to imagine a waterfall and stream without a pond. Where does the water go? A Pondless® Waterfall works much like a regular pond. The hole is dug then lined with pond liner before placing the AquaBlox on the floor, which are then covered with rock and gravel, and filled with water. The water is then circulated from beneath the rocks and gravel by a pump that sits on the bottom, inside a Pondless Waterfall Vault. A pipe runs from there up to a Waterfall Spillway and into an overflowing waterfall, where it falls back into the reservoir. Since the water level never pools above the level of the rock and gravel fill, it give the appearance of a waterfall without a pond, when in fact, the “pond” is there but not visible.

The Pondless® Waterfall has made many water-lovers who were previously unable to indulge in the sweet sounds of falling water, very happy. It’s a great alternative for those who are trying to get their feet wet, or looking to fit a little bit of paradise into their own backyard. In other words, when all else fails … go Pondless®!

Click here to watch a video on the installation of a Pondless® Waterfall system.

In order to work out how much rock you need, perform the following calculation:

(L in meters x W in meters)/4.1 = metric tonnes of Rock & Boulder.

It's best to use a 1:2:1 Ratio - as an example, for every 1 tonne of 15-30 cm rock, use 2 tonne of 30-45 cm rock and 1 tonne of 45-60 cm boulder. Using a variety of sizes makes the pond look more natural.

Rock Calculation Example:

A 5m x 5m pond needs

(5x5)/4.1 = 6.1 tonnes of Rock & Boulder

6.1/4 = 1.53

Therefore use 1.53 tonneof 15-30cm rock, 3.06 tonne of 30-45cm rock and 1.53 tonne of 45-60 cm boulders.

In order to work out the amount of pebbles you need for your pond, you should calculate 30% of the rocks and boulders you are using.

For example: If you require 6.1 tonnes of Rock & Boulder, multiply 6.1 x 0.3 = 1.83 tonne of pebbles 20-50mm in size.

Approximate Litres of Water in a STREAM
(Length x Width x 77) = Litres in the stream.
*You need 2x the amount of water in your basin

Fountainscapes are small decorative water features such as tabletop fountains, container water gardens, stand-alone fountains, bubbling urns, spitters, and fountains that incorporate an in-ground reservoir.

Container Water Gardens
If you're interested in "testing the waters" of the water gardening hobby, a container water garden is a great place to start! They are generally used to add the sound of water to a deck or patio, but they also look great greeting visitors by the front door. But they don't just add beauty, they also give kids a fun way to learn about nature, and make a great starter "pond" for any young children interested in water.

A container water garden can be created using virtually any type of container ... as long as it has the ability to hold water. An old tub, a galvanised bucket, your favourite terra cotta pot, or an old whiskey barrel all make great containers for your new water garden! Once you've chosen the container, you need to make sure it will hold water. Any un-glazed pottery will need to be sealed and drain holes will need to be plugged. A wooden container such as a whiskey barrel can be lined with a piece of rubber liner that is affixed to the rim. Make sure the sealant you use safe for plants and fish.

A container water garden wouldn't be a garden without out the plants. When planting a container water garden, the same principals apply as with a regular container garden. A balance of plants that are different shapes and sizes means you'll have a planter that is pleasing to the eye. Or, highlighting just one special plant, such as a lotus plant if you have a large container, or a single, water lily if you have a smaller container, makes a striking garden and a much simpler approach.

If you add fish to your container water garden, consider the water volume of the container. The water in smaller containers goes through extreme temperature changes, which has a negative effect on most fish. Mosquito fish however, can tolerate warm water quite well. If your container holds more than 75 litres of water you can add any type of goldfish.

Since mosquitoes will lay eggs in stagnant water, you'll need a small statuary pump fitted with a spitter or fountain head to keep them away from your container water garden. If you don't want a fountain effect, you can position the pump discharge just under the surface of the water to create water movement.

Maintenance is easy! To keep the pump operating properly and the plants submerged at the correct level, you'll need to occasionally add water to make up for evaporation. Now that you're enjoying your container water garden, be careful. Once the water gardening bites you, there's no going back! Next, you'll be reading how to build your own in-ground pond.

Standalone Fountains
Standalone Fountains are gaining popularity due to their ease of set-up and maintenance. Found at garden centres and home improvement stores across Australia, a wide range of styles and finishes are available to fit everyone's taste and budget. From impressive brass to simple resin fountains, these features are made to "stand alone," meaning they don't need any counterparts to make them function. Much like a tabletop fountain, all you need to do is add water, plug it in, and enjoy. Some larger units may require a bit of simple assembly.

Once you find a fountain that fits your style and budget, all you need to do is find the perfect location for it. You can place it in the foyer of your home to greet guests, or set it outside on the back deck to enjoy during a cool summer evening. Tuck one near a garden path or by the front entrance of your home. You'll soon find you want more than just one fountain to grace your landscape. The sound of water draws visitors into your garden and provides a place for the eyes to rest while enjoying the outdoor spaces.

Bubbling Urns and Spitters
These larger water features are typically set atop an underground reservoir that keeps re-circulating the water. Once the urn fills with water, the water spills out and over into the underground basin, which pumps the water back up through the urn. If a spitter or decorative fountain is more to your liking, you can still set it on the reservoir and a pipe will transfer the water from the basin up through the centre of the spitter or fountain.

Aquascape provides an extra large reservoir called the AquaBasin™. The AquaBasin supports up to 680kg and holds 370 litres of water. Large basalt columns can be set atop the basin for a truly impressive decorative water feature in the landscape. For a more formal look, try an impressive brass sculpture.

The AquaBasin™ can easily be installed within just a few hours if you like to tackle home projects on your own, or you can hire a Certified Aquascape Contractor to do the job for you. Aquascape provides a wide variety of decorative pieces that can be used in conjunction with the AquaBasin™, from ceramic urns to brass sculptures to carved stone structures. What's more, Aquascape adds new decorative options each year, so there's always something fresh and new to add to your landscape.

Click here to see a short video on the installation of a fountainscape installed using our AquaBasin™ system.

These videos feature the installation of a beautiful decorative fountainscape using the Aquascape AquaBasin, Decobasin, and Mini AquaBasin. It's easy to install and can be done in a few hours. So, why not spruce up your landscape today with a fountainscape system from Aquascape.

https://youtu.be/rrYknJf1p_0
https://youtu.be/ZCcPQLdxETM

Not all water features require an annual cleanout. If there is a layer of “crud” at the bottom of the pond and the water is dark in colour, it would be a good idea to do a full clean-out. If there is just a small amount of debris that you can stir up and capture with a net and the water looks clear, a little tidying up and small water change is all that’s in order.

The best time to perform a pond clean-out is before the water temperature in the pond creeps above 13 degrees. If a clean-out is performed when the water is warmer, after bacteria colonies form, the balance of the ecosystem will again be thrown off.

Here’s what you’ll need to get started:

• A clean-out pump with approximately 7.5m of discharge hose.
• A high-pressure nozzle for your garden hose, or a power washer.
• Garden shears for trimming plants.
• A large Tupperware bin or even a child’s swimming pool or a similar sized container to hold fish and any other critters you find during the clean-out.
• A net or something similar to place over the fish container to keep them from jumping out.
• Buckets to collect leaves and debris
• A fish net.
• Aquascape Pond Detoxifier™ Plus water conditioner to remove chlorine and chloramines prior to putting fish back.
• And Aquascape fertiliser tabs.

The first step is to drain the Pond or Pondless® Waterfall

• Place the clean-out pump in the deepest point of the pond or in the Pondless® Waterfall Vault or Snorkel in order to remove the water.
• Drain the water into the surrounding landscape. Be sure to relocate the pipe two or three times to allow the water to seep into the ground and not flood the yard.
• If you have fish, use some of this pond water to fill up the holding pool. The fish can be removed from the pond using a net once the water is around knee-high so you can easily catch them.
• Don’t keep the fish in the holding pool for more than several hours. Keep them in a shady spot with a net over the top of the pool to prevent them from jumping out. If your have an aerator, you can use it in the holding pool to help oxygenate the water.

Don’t Overdo the Cleaning

• Rinse the inside of the pond. You can also use a pressure washer to help remove debris from the rocks and gravel.
• Don’t try to scrub all of the algae away. Some algae on the rocks will prove beneficial in developing your ecosystem.
• Use the gentle stream from a garden hose to rinse the rocks and gravel. Start at the top and work your way down to the bottom. Periodically turn the clean-out pump on to remove the dirty water. You can discontinue the periodic pumping once the water rinsing down to the bottom begins to look clear. Remove the pump and begin filling the pond with the garden hose.

Cleaning the Filters

• Remove any debris from the bottom of the skimmer or Pondless Vault. This can be done by hand or by using the cleanout pump.
• Remove the media nets and filter pads from the BioFalls® filter, and rinse then off so they are free of debris.

Finally you can Put Your Fish Back Into Their Clean Home

Your pond clean-out is now done and it’s time to put your fish back into their home. Once your pond is half full, you can perform these steps to safely place your fish back in the pond:

• If you’re on mains water, it’s imperative that you add Pond Detoxifer to the water so it is safe for fish.
• Dip a bucket, or container, in the holding tank and fill it with water.
• After you’ve caught a fish, place it in the bucket and set the buckets in the clean water.
• After about 15 minutes, periodically begin splashing some pond water into the bucket.
• By now, the temperature of the pond and the bucket water should be close to the same. You are ready to spill the fish into their spring-cleaned home.

Warm water has a low capacity for holding oxygen, so you may start to see your fish gasping for air close to the water’s surface, or especially close to a fountain or waterfall. As your fish struggle for oxygen, they’ll become increasingly stressed. And stressed fish are more likely to develop diseases … a scenario you want to avoid.

To optimise fish health during extreme heat, you’ll want to ensure your fish have the best pond environment possible. It all starts with a well-designed water feature. Depth, plant coverage, shade, and circulation should all be considered when building a pond. A minimum depth of 60cm is suggested so the bottom can remain cooler.

You’ll also want to stock your pond with a lot of plants to provide shade for the fish. A good rule of thumb is to provide plant coverage of approximately 1/3 to 1/2 of the pond’s surface area. Waterlily pads provide great coverage, but if your pond lacks the proper amount, you can easily add floating plants such as water lettuce until the waterlilies fill in.

During these hot days of summer, try some of these tips to keep your pond performing optimally:

• Add oxygen to your pond by placing an aerator or AquaForce® pump in your pond. You can also install a fountain with a pump if your pond doesn’t have a waterfall or stream built in.
• If you feed your fish, feed them in the morning and be careful not to overfeed. Uneaten food decays faster in warmer water and can pollute the pond.
• Be sure to remove dying leaves and flowers before they have a chance to decay in the warmer water.
• Be extra cautious when using algaecides in warmer temperatures as the sudden death of algae will consume a large amount of available oxygen.

The following are recommended tips for preparing a pond for the Autumn seasons.

• There may be an increasing number of dead or brown leaves this time of year, so prune them off all of your plants. Your lilies – tropical and hardy – should still be going strong, at least until the first heavy frost.
• Stop fertilising when the weather becomes cooler. This lets the plants know the season is coming to an end.
• As leaves on trees begin to turn those beautiful fall colours, it’s time to put a pond net over your water feature. This will prevent you from having to empty the debris net every day to keep up with the influx of leaves. Some of them may sneak by and sink to the bottom, so try to remove as many as you can as fast as you can.
• If you leave too much organic matter in your pond, like leaves, the water may turn brown. If this happens, remove the excess debris and add activated carbon to clear the water.
• As it gets colder, your aquatic plants will have all but died for the season. Now you can cut back the dead plant material and remove the tropicals if desired.

For clarity issues, Rapid Clear, a flocculent that is 100% safe for fish, plants or wildlife, can be used. This product is a fast acting treatment that can solve cloudy water in just a few hours by physically causing the particulates floating in the water to clump together into larger particles that can be filter out. https://youtu.be/_jQBUDrkBqA

There are several other effective products that you can use to help clarify the water. Our Maintain For Ponds reduces maintenance and promotes optimum water quality by combining our most effective water treatments into one powerful application whilst our Clear for Ponds is effective at clearing unsightly water conditions, including cloudy water and all forms or algae.

Finally there are UV filters. Aquascape offers the Aquascape UltraKlean Pressure Filter with UV.
The new Aquascape UltraKlean pressure should be placed beside the pond (not inside the pond!). A pump sitting inside the water will push the pond water through the UltraKlean, exposing the water through biological filtration, a high-output UV bulb, and then back into the pond. Using this method, the UlteaKlean will allow you to have clear water and the low maintenance water feature you have always wanted!
https://youtu.be/wNpIz4strSA

There are many other factors that may be the cause to these water clarity issues. Temperature (Has the temperature fluctuated in your area lately?), the location of the pond (direct sunlight/shaded) and the surrounding environment (mulch, trees, plantlife, etc.). If you continue to experience problems with your water, please feel free to call one of your local retailers or contractors.

Clear for Ponds is used to eliminate that pesky string algae that generates from the waterfalls, streams and the pond itself. Anytime there is an issue with string algae, this product works best.

No one wants a green pond so let us help you keep your water clear and reduce your pond maintenance with our easy-to-use, fast-acting Algaecide! Safe for fish and plants, Clear for Ponds will not discolour your water or make it cloudy when combatting algae blooms.

• Controls string algae
• Clears green water
• Can be used on ponds with fish and plants

The IonGen™ System G2 Electronic Algae Controller allows you to spend your time relaxing next to your water feature instead of trying to maintain it! The IonGen™ effectively kills algae without the use of traditional liquid chemicals and is designed with a microprocessor that sends a signal to its ion producing probe helping to control algae throughout the entire water feature.

https://youtu.be/SHVMNy36U-c

There are many other factors that may be the cause to these water clarity issues. Temperature (Has the temperature fluctuated in your area lately?), the location of the pond (direct sunlight/shaded) and the surrounding environment (mulch, trees, plantlife, etc.). If you continue to experience problems with your water, please feel free to call one of your local retailers or contractors.

For green water treatment, view this article: http://support.aquascapeinc.com/hc/en-us/articles/201039830-How-do-I-get-rid-of-green-water-
For string-like algae, view this article: http://support.aquascapeinc.com/hc/en-us/articles/200974294-There-is-a-string-like-algae-on-my-rocks-and-waterfall-What-product-can-I-use-to-fix-it-

For clarity issues, Rapid Clear, a flocculent that is 100% safe for fish, plants or wildlife, can be used. This product is a fast acting treatment that can solve cloudy water in just a few hours by physically causing the particulates floating in the water to clump together into larger particles that can be filter out. https://youtu.be/_jQBUDrkBqA

There are many other factors that may be the cause to these water clarity issues. Temperature (Has the temperature fluctuated in your area lately?), the location of the pond (direct sunlight/shaded) and the surrounding environment (mulch, trees, plantlife, etc.). If you continue to experience problems with your water, please feel free to call one of your local retailers or contractors.

How to Add Fish to a New Pond
When adding fish to a new pond or after a cleanout or complete water change, it’s best to wait a minimum of 72 hours for the water chemistry and temperature of the pond to stabilise. Make sure to add a double dose of Aquascape Pond Detoxifier when first filling the pond to neutralise chlorine and chloramine, reduce fish stress, and detoxify heavy metals. Start with a few fish and build the population slowly.

During the shipment fish are under extreme stress. It is very important to follow these instructions closely.
Unpack the fish from the transport box and float the bag in the pond for approximately 20 minutes. During this time the temperature in the bag will adjust to your pond’s current water temperature. Avoid floating pond fish in direct sunlight; cover the plastic bag with an old towel, cloth, or something that will shade the bag without sinking it.

If the pond fish are purchased locally and not transported for a long period of time, you can help acclimatise the fish after floating by opening the bag and adding approximately 20% pond water by volume.
We also recommend adding Aquascape Pond Detoxifier to the water contained in the bag as well as to the pond itself. Pond Detoxifier will neutralise any ammonia produced by the fish during transport, regenerate damage to the mucus membrane caused by netting, and reduce stress during acclimatisation. Be careful not to leave the fish in the open bag for too long as available oxygen will quickly be consumed. If you have an air pump you can also drop a small air stone into the open bag to ensure proper oxygenation.

After approximately 30 minutes, your fish are ready to be introduced to their new home. Scoop the fish out of the bag using a soft mesh net and release them into your pond. Discard the remaining water. Never just dump the fish from the bag into the water. This will cause extreme stress and can even cause death if the difference in water temperature and chemistry is extreme.

The fish will probably head for the bottom of the pond and stay there until they become familiar with their new surroundings. Don't be alarmed as this is quite normal.
Fish should be fed on the 2nd or 3rd day after introduction. We recommend you feed your fish with Aquascape branded fish food.

Koi … the jewels of the water garden! Have you thought about making them a part of your watery paradise. Everyone who has koi preaches of the joy they have while feeding them, watching them swim through caves and waterfalls, and even naming them. You’ll find koi of all different shapes and sizes named accordingly. There’s “Goldie” – everyone’s favourite yellow fish; and “Spot” – the fish with a precarious spot on the front of its forehead; the names can go on, and on, and on!

Low-Maintenance Pets
One of the other things that is so wonderful about welcoming a fishy friend into your pond is that they are pretty low maintenance. You won’t see a koi or goldfish scratching at the door to go for a walk, or choosing your prized sofa for a litter box. Nope. Fish live, breath, and eat in the exact same place … your pond. They truly are one of the most low-maintenance pets you can have.

When it comes to feeding them, you may notice that there are several different recommendations out there. If your fish are part of a balanced ecosystem, as is the case with the Aquascape system, your best bet is to feed them as much as they will eat in five minutes, being careful not to leave too much food floating at the surface.

More Than Just Koi
Are there other fish, besides koi, that make great pond-living pets? There most certainly are! That same goldfish that stares at you from the glass at the fish store is a perfect fit for your pond. Goldfish are incredibly resilient and can be a great starter fish for a new pond owner. Best of all, they come in all, shapes, sizes, and colours and if you have a container water garden or preformed pond, they’re a great fit!

Another fish that is sure to find its way into your heart resembles the koi, but is much smaller. It’s called a shubunkin and it’s a kind of single-tailed, long-bodied goldfish that differs from the koi in the fact that it doesn’t have “barbells,” which are whiskers of sorts that are used to root through gravel.

It Doesn’t End There
If you do your homework, you’ll find that there are plenty of fish (many native to your area) that would be perfectly content in your home. From minnows to game fish – your options are endless. Fish are a major part of your pond’s ecosystem and they are important to your pond’s overall health, but they also make great pets. And best of all, regardless of what’s happened in your life, they’ll always be there to greet you at the end of a long day. Ain’t that grand!?

Who doesn’t love koi in their pond? They’re beautiful and friendly, providing glimmers of colour as they weave their way beneath the lily pads. Certainly they deserve their rightful place in a tranquil water garden. But what about other options? An array of pond fish is just waiting to call your pond their home. Koi are only legal in NSW and WA in Australia.

Goldfish
Goldfish are perfect for your pond … resilient and able to handle all different kinds of water. For the newbie pond owner, goldfish are a great choice for getting started with fish-keeping. Several varieties of goldfish are available, from comets (plain orange and white) to the exotics like ranchus and bubble-eyes.

Exotic Goldfish
Included in this showy category are lionheads, telescopes, black moors, orandas, ranchus, and ryukins. The single most distinguishing characteristic of this group as a whole, are their round, bulbous abdomens. With this exotic group, extra caution should be taken if they are going to be placed outdoors, especially over the winter. Because they’re not as hardy as some of the other goldfish, they may become ill if left outdoors in the winter. This is especially true of the adults of these varieties.
The reason for this overwintering weakness is thought to be related to the compacted, contorted abdomen of these fish. Their abdomens serve as a delicate balancing act of downward ballast, intestine, and fat versus the buoyant structure of the airbladder. The hardship of winter almost always degrades this equilibrium, resulting in the fish flipping over and eventually dying. This is easy to overcome by bringing these finned friends indoors to join you just in time for the holidays!

Shubunkins
The shubunkins is a type of single-tailed, long-bodied goldfish that originated in China. There are two different types of shubunkins. One has a long tail fin, with broad tail fin lobes that are rounded on the end. The other one looks more like a common goldfish, with a short tail fin. Bred mainly for their colouring, shubunkins often have a red, black, and sky blue colouring … sort of like a calico.
The most valuable of the shubunkins are mostly blue with strong accents of white and red, and the overall pattern sparingly flecked with black. In fact, when blessed with a white, black, and orange pattern, some may resemble baby koi but are far from it. They are different in size and markings. Most notably, they lack barbells (whiskers of sorts) that are found on koi. Shubunkins are hardy fish that can survive sweltering summers and severe winters, and can grow up to 14 inches in a minimum 180-gallon pond.

Catfish
Catfish are another popular fish seen in the water garden. They are commonly sold as scavengers to help clean up the pond, but they really don’t do that much of it. Caution should be taken with these fish because they can become quite large in a short period of time. When they become large, they can cause trouble because they may start eating whatever they can fit in their mouth … including other fish!

Learning about Fish
Getting to know the background of the pond fish you plan to keep as pets is vital to their survival and your sanity. By knowing their defining characteristics, you will have a thorough understanding of how the fish will interact in your pond with other fish, plants, and aquatic life.

Do you have a pond that your fish will appreciate? Several factors influence whether a pond is habitable by fish, so before you stock your new pond or choose a few new finned friends at your water gardening store, take a few minutes to assess your fish’s dwelling space.

It all starts with the size of your pond. You need to make sure that it is large enough to support fish and their growth. Pond fish generally need 38 litres of water for every inch of their length, and you have to be ready for them to grow larger, so be careful not to overstock, no matter how tempting this may be! Some pond experts go so far as to recommend only ½ inch of fish per 38 litres of water as a maximum stocking density.

On occasion, you may encounter ponds crowded with 2 or even 3 inches of fish per 38 litres of water and the fish seem to be fine. However, the density and ecological strain of this loading turn these ponds into fragile systems. The pH tends to sag, the fish tend to grow more slowly, and disease can become a common occurrence. It’s very difficult to salvage sick fish in a pond that’s overcrowded. Most likely, Mother Nature will pick off your favourite fish to achieve her ideal stocking density based on the system the fish are in, and then the remainder may recover. So reduce the number of fish if your pond is overstocked before Mother Nature handles this crucial step for you.

Fish actually sleep.
Not in the same manner that we understand, but they do sleep. Fish do not have eyelids so they are unable to close their eyes. Instead, fish catch periods of rest by floating in one place or nestling into a cosy spot at the bottom of your pond.

Stressed out.
Koi show stress by blushing red in their fins and on their bodies. This is caused by a stressful environment, such as poor water quality. It’s their way of showing you, their caretaker, that something is wrong.

They have teeth, my dear.
Koi are equipped with rather large teeth at the back of their throat. They do not use them defensively or aggressively but rather to process any hard-to-chew food they come across at the pond bottom.

Boy or girl?
Female koi tend to have rounder bodies and smaller, rounded pectoral fins while male koi are larger, have a sleeker shape, and their pectoral fins are larger and pointed.

Hear, hear!
Koi hear through a type of amplifying system called a Weberian apparatus that other fish do not have. It consists of four pairs of bones called ossicles that connect the inner ear to the swim bladder. The connection of the air chamber to the inner ear greatly improves their ability to hear.

Hey guess what? Koi and pond fish have a simple heart with only two chambers! Who the heck cares and when will that be relevant to anything you might see or do with pond fish? Probably never, so the purpose of this article is to make you aware of anatomy that does actually matter.

The Fins
A pond fish like a koi or goldfish is pretty typical in its finnage –they have the usual dorsal (top) fin, an assortment of bottom fins, and then the caudal (tail) fin, as well as a few others. The dorsal fin in koi is extremely vulnerable to ulceration and it's not uncommon for the mildest of bacterial infections to erode a hole right in the middle of it. Once the ulcer has healed, the fin can remain incomplete. When purchasing a new fish, inspect the dorsal fin to make sure it’s whole. The paired pelvic fins emerge cranially (head end) to the anus, and they're the fins that define the landmarks for injection because it is the safest site with good absorption.

The Scales
The scales cover the body and are of variable size, depending on the location, and they overlap at five points. People tend to think the scales overlap on the obvious four sides but the centre of the scale is underlapped by the scale behind and in front of it.
When a fish gets a deep wound, they may dislodge, or even shed, scales. The dead tissue and loose scales that surround a wound can provide bad bacteria with fuel to continue to infect the fish. To avoid this, gently scrub the wound with a piece of gauze soaked in grocery store hydrogen peroxide. The term for this process is debridement. It's not meant for all wounds, and should not be overdone. Over-cleaning a wound removes cells that are trying to heal the wound, so usually one debridement is needed. Fish do a good job of replacing lost scales over the course of several weeks after their loss. However the replacement-scale is of a finer (thinner) quality and sometimes unevenly marked compared to the original scales.

The Gills and Operculum
The gills are to a fish what your lungs are to you – a delicate organ system that exposes all of your blood to oxygen. The gills are exactly the same structure only they're pushing the blood through capillaries that exchange with water, not air. What most people don’t know is that the gills perform another important function – the excretion of fish waste in the form of ammonia. The gills are the most important waste excretion organ in the fish’s body.

You can see that damage to the gills by way of infection with bacteria, destruction via viruses such as Koi Herpes Virus, infestation with parasites, or just damage from medications or poor water quality, can impact the fish far more than just breathing.

The operculum is the thick boney covering on either side of the head, and protects the gill arches. You may need to lift the operculum to examine the gills, but don't lift it too far or it might tear. The gills of any sick or dead fish can be photographed to provide important forensic information after a fish disease outbreak.

The Eyes
Koi and goldfish don't need eyes to live. In fact, there's a genetic mutation that causes one out of ten thousand fish to hatch out without any at all. If a fish loses one or both of its eyes through trauma, there is no need to euthanise it because it can find and apprehend food perfectly well with their barbels, lips, and mouths, which are absolutely loaded with sensory structures (taste buds, no kidding).

There's a fat, cushiony blood supply to and from the eye, called the choroid plexus, designed to protect they eye from any trauma. Sometimes the choroid swells due to a blow to the eye. This is temporary and the eye may sink back into the socket over the coming week. A popped eye for an indefinite period of time could be the sign of another problem that may require the help of a fish professional.

An Overview of the Guts
Koi and goldfish have a very simple digestive tract. They have an esophagus that comes from the mouth and goes to the stomach … wait, check that … koi and goldfish don't have a stomach in any true sense. A stomach means a valve at the top and bottom of an acid-secreting, digestive organ, but koi and goldfish just have a stretchy wide spot in the top of the intestine for food storage while they pass it into the intestine.

Koi tummies hate to be full in cold water. When this occurs, the lining of the intestine is damaged and bad bacteria can get through the damaged lining into the blood stream. Of course, the fish show no obvious sign of this, but may die later in the Spring when the water warms and the bacteria go to work on the poor fish. This is one reason we recommend that you not feed fish in wintertime, when cold snaps are possible or when the water temperature will be below 12° C.

The Air Bladder
The air bladder is an amazingly delicate structure. It fills with air via a thin veil of capillaries extending over its surface, and air is released by way of a thin tube that comes from the caudal sac. The air is burped into the esophagus, which then escapes through the mouth. The air bladder is balanced to the weight of the fish against the water, which is the primary means by which the fish can hang in the water without paddling the whole time.

If a fish is floating upside down on the surface, something has happened to the air bladder's ability to let air out, so it is then too large and too buoyant for the weight of the fish. A problem with the air bladder can also cause the fish to sink to the pond bottom. This usually occurs when the spinal cord is damaged near the point where the nerves that regulate the air bladder emerge. Examples include electrocution through a stray voltage released into the water. Sometimes the air bladder can be removed or surgically corrected, enabling the fish to swim normally.

The Skeleton
Fish are boney, and ornamental pond fish are no exception. They're full of bones and, unlike the bones of sharks and stingrays, their bones really are bones – not cartilage. The bones of a fish are not meant for bearing weight because, in water, the fish is pretty much weightless. The two principal stresses on the fishes' bones are hydrostatic pressure from the water, and the push and pull of the fishes' mighty muscles on those bones. That's it.

That’s why, when you net a fish and carry it in that net, you're putting a unique force on their skeleton which can damage them. The fish is bent into a u-shape and its full weight torques the skeletal bones. Broken backs are a common result. Instead, use your net to catch the fish and then slide a big plastic bowl under the fish to carry it in.
If a fish has a broken back, the cure is simply time. The fish may compensate the injury – even if crooked from that day on – or it may simply starve to death.

The Muscles
Your muscles and fish muscles are really different. If you've ever seen a fish filet you remember that there are red and white lines in the meat. The muscles of a fish are oriented in thick bands called somites. These bands are stacked all down the sides of the fish in thick, orderly rows. Let’s go back to carrying fish in nets to find out why this matters. When the process causes damage to the back, it also destroys at least some of the nerves to at least one of the bands of muscle.
Whenever a somite dies, the muscle gets smaller and a kink in the fish will be seen. The concave side of the bend is the side with the dead somite. If you don't carry fish around in nets, this is unlikely to ever have been seen in your collection.

Koi Teeth
In the back of the koi throat, emerging from the lower gill arch in the back, there are three to four molars. These molars have serrations on the top like our molars. They're broad, crowned teeth and they're used to destroy shells and pulverise insects and crustaceans scavenged from the pond bottom. These teeth are shed and replaced continually through the life of the koi. They are too far back for you to ever be bitten by a koi.
So there you have it. The basics of fish anatomy as it relates to the fish living in your pond. Not meant to cure any issue or ailment, but simply to better understand the inner workings of your finned friends.

You love your finned friends and can’t wait to see them swimming about after the winter thaw. Now is the right time to be thinking of your fish and taking measures to ensure they remain healthy throughout the year. Most fish issues can be avoided by following these simple, preventative measures.

Understand Water Quality
The majority of issues with fish are caused by poor water quality. Make sure that the fish population is under control and don’t be afraid to do partial water changes often and consistently. Make sure when adding water or when doing a partial water change in your pond, that you treat the water with Aquascape’s Pond Detoxifier to eliminate chlorine/chloramines and chelate heavy metals. Aerating your pond water is also something that can potentially increase water quality dramatically.

Buy Your Fish from a Responsible Retailer
Never buy sick fish and if possible, quarantine new fish for a few days before adding them to your pond. Always ask how long the retailer has had the fish. If they have just received them in, ask the retailer to hold the fish for a few days to make sure the fish recovers from stress related to transport and new water chemistry.

Keep a Close Eye on Your Fish
If any signs of disease are seen, start using Aquascape Pond Salt immediately and start feeding with medicated fish food. If things look like they are getting worse, immediately treat the pond with the appropriate Aquascape fish treatment. The longer you wait to treat the problem, the less chance you have of saving your fish.

Test Your Water
Test it yourself or have your local retailer test your pond water for any signs of a problem. It is also important to test the water coming directly from your tap as it is increasingly common to have issues including ammonia coming directly from your source water.

Feed Your Fish a High Quality Food
Feeding a high quality food will not affect water quality and will ensure that your fish are getting all the vitamins and nutrients they need to maintain proper health. Be sure to feed often and consistently. Before treating any potential problem with your fish, it is important to make sure that you are using the correct treatment, dosage, or treatment rate to prevent any recurrence.

Remember … prevention is the best cure for your finned friends! The easiest way to avoid disease problems is to maintain optimum water conditions. Feeding a quality diet and adding beneficial bacteria on a regular basis will help maintain a balanced ecosystem. Disease problems must be addressed in the early stages to be successful. By following these simple tips you’ll enjoy seeing your pond fish swim happily about throughout the pond season!

There are countless choices when selecting plants to place in a stream. These species include Creeping Jenny, Chameleon Plant, Parrot's Feather, assorted grasses, Marsh Marigold, Taro, Forget-me-nots, etc.

Aquatic plants play a critical role in the ecological balance of your water garden. Learn just how easy it is to re-pot and fertilise your aquatic plants as Scott Rhodes reveals the secret to unlock their full potential and beauty. https://youtu.be/wo0_tFlk9wQ

Submerged plants are commonly referred to as oxygenators, but this is a false description. These plants do produce oxygen during the day, but at night and on cloudy days, the cycle is reversed and they use oxygen and produce carbon dioxide. These plants are still important allies in creating a well-balanced water feature by using nutrients in the water. They also provide great hiding places for baby fish.

Floating aquatic plants float on the water surface while their roots hang down into the water. Most are tropical, but a few are hardy perennials in climates with hard winter freezes. These plants may be used to shade the water, helping with summer algae control.

Plants such as water lettuce do a great job of disguising the open top of the BIOFALLS® filter, while providing excellent filtration. Use a stick across the spillway to keep the waterfall from carrying the plants over and into the pond. They can also be floated in the pond, however care must be taken to make sure that they don’t end up in the skimmer.

Marginal Aquatics
Marginal aquatics are the plants found growing around the edges (margins) of a water garden. They add valuable filtration to the pond and they remove elements that would otherwise feed algae.

To create a natural-looking pond, a good selection of marginal plants is very important. There are hundreds of varieties – hardy and tropical – that come in all shapes, sizes, textures, and flower colours.

In a rock and gravel pond, marginal plants are generally placed directly into the gravel. This allows them to thrive naturally, and filter the water more effectively. Invasive species should be kept in pots that are buried in the rocks and gravel. Well-behaved plants can be taken out of the pots and planted directly in the gravel where the roots can absorb nutrients directly from the substrate of the pond where fish waste and other organic debris settle and begin to decompose.

Choose the area you wish to place the plant, move the gravel aside with your hands, place the plant, and spread the gravel around the base to support the plant and hide the pot. If you’re planting bare-root, remove the plant from the pot and wash away any loose soil before planting. Tropicals that you plan to bring indoors over the winter, should be left in the pots to make removal easier.

Fertilising water lilies is necessary to encourage a greater number of larger flowers. Time-released, granular fertiliser, mixed into the soil at the bottom of the pot or plant pocket is a great way to fertilise lilies at the time of planting. Any other time, however, it would be messy and inconvenient. That’s when Aquatic Plant Tablets work great.

Surfmud Tinted Covering Cream is an all day waterproof barrier protecting against the harsh conditions faced by surfers. To maximise its effectiveness and your surf time we recommend rubbing the zinc into your skin in a circular motion as you would a normal lotion – then finishing with a second visible layer. Note the layer of Surfmud does not need to be thick – just rubbed in and spread evenly to the areas you want to protect. Zinc is a physical barrier so if you can see it you will be covered.

Yes – Surfmud will NOT wash into your eyes. Surfmud also has NO chemical blockers or preservatives which can irritate eyes. Surfmud can be applied underneath the eyes and on top of your eyelids – be careful not to rub Surfmud into the eye.

Apply Surfmud as recommended and you will get extended surf time out of it. We recommend to re-apply every 4 hours.

The best way to remove Surfmud is to use face-cleansing wipes then wash your face as per normal. Other than that you can do what we do and have a dedicated Surfmud washer ready to go in the shower.

Surfmud is designed to stay on your skin for extended use in the water – for this reason it can be difficult to remove from your clothing. We recommend always applying the Surfmud to your face AFTER you’ve put on your wetsuit or rashie to avoid being rubbed off onto your clothes. If you do get Surfmud on your clothing – try using a stain removing stick prior to washing – it works for us. True surfers always choose function over fashion…

Yes our custom tins have been specifically designed for you to take out in the water with you. They fit perfectly in your pocket and are water tight – great for those epic days when the waves are on and you don’t want to come back in to re-apply!

Surfmud will melt if it becomes very hot. Surfmud is best stored under 25 degrees celsius and will melt at temperatures over 75 degrees celsius. We understand that many surfers will leave Surfmud in the car where it could potentially melt. If your Surfmud does get too hot and melts – put it in a cool place until it resets. It should be fine to use once reset but we recommend that you do not allow this to happen repeatedly.

Surfmud contains NO Nanoparticles. Our zinc is the visible zinc and this is why we use the Iron Oxides to colour it from bright white to skin tone. We use regular Zinc Oxide because we believe it’s the safest UV blocker available.

Currently Surfmud is available in one skin tone. The colour is brown – the more you apply the darker it is – the less the lighter.

Surfmud™ contains 30% Zinc Oxide. Zinc oxide is nonirritating, nonallergenic and non-comedogenic. We add: Coco Caprylate/ Caprate, organic bees wax, natural lanolin, Australia clay and iron oxides for natural colour.

WE RECOMMEND TO ALWAYS DO A TEST PATCH ON YOUR SKIN PRIOR TO YOUR FIRST APPLICATION – IF YOU HAVE ANY REACTION DISCONTINUE USE IMMEDIATELY

If you have any further questions please don't hesitate to contact us.